Myths and Misconceptions: MSG
Every week I see dozens of myths and misunderstandings about food and our company come across my desk, confused thoughts ranging from “Everything Whole Foods sells is organic” to “Canola oil is a secret poison” to “Whole Foods Market is owned by Paul Newman.” This is the first in a series of posts aimed at sharing - and clearing up - some of the more popular misunderstandings floating around out there. Through these examples, I’d like to illustrate the lengths we go to “do the homework” about natural foods and to make sure that there’s nothing in our products that you’d be surprised to find there. If you have any particular questions or topics you want to see covered, post a comment down below and let me know what you want to hear about.
Who we are and what we do
Look around near the doors of any one of our stores and you’ll likely find our commitment to “Selling the Highest Quality Natural and Organic Products Available” painted directly on the wall. This promise, the first of our company’s core values, seems simple at first glance, but becomes complicated once you start to consider the words “natural” and “organic” and what they really mean. I’ll save “organic” for another post, but what does “natural” mean, and who decides? Well, we do, and we take the job very seriously.
I work as part of our Global Quality Standards Team. We set the company’s standards for what we sell in our stores, including food ingredients, body care products, dietary supplements, meat, seafood, and virtually every other category of products in our stores. Our jobs are a sort of a hybrid of food science, chemistry and philosophy, as we review the ingredients, products and practices that go into our products. We’re not just studying the nitty gritty of how the ingredients are made, but how they fit into our belief that minimally processed food is better, and our promise to only sell natural food. We consider ourselves buying agents for our customers, rather than as sales agents for our suppliers, which in my mind is one of the best descriptions of what we do. Our work always starts with our promise to sell “the highest quality natural and organic products;” no matter how deep we get into the chemistry of how a given ingredient is made, the questions we’re trying to answer are “is this natural” and “would our shoppers be surprised to find this in a natural product?” Is it natural? How is it made? How is it extracted? Is it legal? Is it safe? Our buyers and stores are only allowed to bring in products that meet our strict standards.
Myth: There’s Hidden MSG lurking in our aisles
And now to this post’s aforementioned myth and/or misconception: Ever since the TV show 60 Minutes aired a story about MSG in the early 1990s, we’ve been getting calls and emails from customers concerned that there’s secret MSG hidden behind our labels. The short answer is that MSG, or monosodium glutamate, is an unacceptable ingredient at Whole Foods Market, thus not allowed in any of our products. We don’t allow it because it’s an artificial flavor enhancer that’s inconsistent with the idea of natural food. But the ongoing confusion about the ingredient is complicated, and requires us to look at some of the chemicals responsible for food tasting good.
The term “glutamate” refers to a number of forms of glutamic acid, an amino acid found naturally in many foods (and in our bodies). Cheese, milk, meat, peas, seaweed and mushrooms are a few of the foods containing the highest levels of natural glutamate, and this substance is largely responsible for the phenomenon of umami, the “fifth taste” of savory, meaty foods. In fact, the discovery of the link between glutamates and savory flavors led the Japanese food scientist Kikunae Ikeda in 1908 to the commercial development of monosodium glutamate. MSG is a synthetically derived and highly concentrated flavor enhancer that is almost completely made up of glutamates. It’s so powerful that just a few drops can drastically change the flavor of a dish.
As the 60Minutes story exposed, it’s also so powerfully concentrated that it can cause severe reactions in people who are hypersensitive to it. While the scientific basis of the set of symptoms known as “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” has been debated and doubted by many, the phenomenon has caused a lot of people to carefully and diligently avoid MSG. A number of consumer groups have claimed that certain food ingredients, such as autolyzed yeast and hydrolyzed protein, are MSG in disguise. They are not.
Autolyzed yeast and hydrolyzed proteins, among other ingredients, are completely natural ingredients that happen to be have substantial amounts of glutamates, but nowhere near the concentration found in MSG. While a small subset of people may be sensitive to even these small levels of glutamate, these ingredients are always clearly identified on the labels so that, as with all food sensitivities and allergies, people can be aware of ingredients they’d like to avoid. These are natural ingredients that are definitely of grave concern for people who are sensitive to them, but they are not MSG. We draw a clear line between natural glutamate-containing foods, which we allow, and highly concentrated MSG, which we don’t.
For further MSG reading:
The New York Times ran a good story on this issue back in March, although I wish they’d made a clearer distinction between MSG and the other glutamate containing additives.
Jordan Sands article “A Short History of MSG: Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures” appeared in the Fall 2005 Issue of Gastronomica (my very favorite food magazine). It’s not available online, but I’d recommend getting your hands on it if you can - hopefully your library has a copy floating around.
16 Responses to “Myths and Misconceptions: MSG”
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I’ve never, ever suspected that Whole Foods would “sneak MSG” into it’s foods when they say that they don’t have it. I’m sorry that anyone has even entertained that idea. The podcast on MSG was interesting though, especially learning the history of it.
July 25th, 2008 at 11:06 pm
dear joe,
it’s funny that you posted on this subject as i was just having this discussion with a customer who was under the same impression, and had returned a product containing autolyzed yeast extract. thanks for clearing it up!
p.s., come home soon, your mother and i miss you.
July 27th, 2008 at 5:30 pm
after years of hearing my dad say “NO MSG” at every chinese place we ate at…this post has made me intrigued to try some. few drops can massively enhance the flavor?!? hmm…as someone who loves trying food, i’m game!
July 28th, 2008 at 10:29 am
Are you trying to tell me that Paul Newman doesn’t own WFM? I’m glad you’re busting some of these natural food myths. I’m looking forward to more. Tanuki loves Umami!
July 28th, 2008 at 11:01 am
So let me get this straight, the reason WFs doesn’t “allow” MSG is because it is a non-natural flavor enhancer and thus doesn’t fit the ethic of whole healthy wholesome foods.
How do you define what MSG is on the labels in WF?
1) overall concentration of free glutamates or
2) purified versus naturally sourced glutamates?
There is nothing on the face of the earth that is not “natural”. One can find natural sources of cyanide, is that then a natural chemical or “industrial”, unnatural?
If the MSG is sourced from long stewed tomatoes (and essentially broken down to the simple glutamate molecules) is it then natural?
If MSG is sourced from some other protein source, say, autolysed yeast protein extract, is it then natural?
I think that you and WF customers need to ask the real question when being so accepting of autolyzed yeast protein extracts and other greenwashing products and terms – if its not there to boost the taste (via the very same MSG mechanism as you would get from the MSG on Doritos, the very same) then why are they using autolyzed yeast protein extracts?
A really good long stewed tomato-based pasta sauce has massive umami precisely because it has released glutamates. That should be enough, adding MSG to this natural preparation is the definition of unwholesome because MSG is proven to be unhealthy and it is an additive meant solely to bring you back to buy that product.
Going by what the FDA approves (approved), especially back in the 1950-90s is not a sound method of determining a healthy diet.
If you would like to delve deeper into MSG and it’s deleterious effects on fetus development, metabolism and other physiological dynamics, visit this post (Monosodium Glutamate: Bad for your brain, your figure, and your health http://nikas-culinaria.com/2007/02/21/monosodium-glutamate-bad-for-your-brain-your-figure-and-your-health/ ) on my blog Nika’s Culinaria. Make sure to read all the comments too.
I am not usually very emphatic with most things relating to food because people have the right to eat well or crappy, its up to them. But when it comes to the people who “should” know about wholesomeness, and who trade on a perceived wholesome ethic, I think its important that WFs be honest about MSG.
July 28th, 2008 at 11:04 am
Hi, Nika. Thanks for your comment. We define MSG as monosodium glutamate, the sodium salt of glutamic acid. This is the highly concentrated form sold commercially as MSG, with levels of glutamates dramatically higher than those found naturally. Autolyzed yeast extracts have much lower levels of glutamate. Natural sources of glutamate may affect the same test receptors and mechanisms as MSG, but they are a far less concentrated form of glutamate.
July 28th, 2008 at 11:06 am
Thank for you for posting this very informative and clear article. I am wading through the mountains of info out there on MSG and am trying to make heads and tails of it. Would you please address the connection between MSG and aspartame — how aspartame reportedly affects us in ways similar to MSG? Thanks. I have been obese for 30 years and only recently came to understand the role between obesity and disease and food processing/additives. Since I recently started eating a healthy, whole foods diet, I have consistently lost one pound per day, without counting calories. The weight is just melting off. I feel so energetic now, my constant headaches have disappeared, along with my anxiety, rapid heart rate, and jitters. I also find myself much less hungry now, and am eating less food as a result, while feeling very satisfied for the first time in my life. Thanks for this blog. It’s really helping me find my way back to good health and good weight.
July 28th, 2008 at 11:26 am
Thanks, April! Congratulations on your new healthy diet – it sounds like you’re feeling well. MSG and aspartame are both very controversial ingredients. In both cases, the FDA says that they’re safe food ingredients, while a number of groups believe that they deserve more scrutiny. I’m happy to say that both ingredients are unacceptable at Whole Foods Market for the simple fact they’re synthetic ingredients that have no place in natural food.
July 28th, 2008 at 11:28 am
Joe-Thanks for the great blog segment. I find it very useful, as we do get many emails from our guests about this issue. It’s great to be able to send them here, so they can read more. What an easy and informative read!
July 28th, 2008 at 12:23 pm
Please do not be mistaken these substitutes are not MSG in hidden form. Those who react to MSG also react to these substances and should be labeled as such. The fact they are using hidden names does not negate their detrimental effect on the human body. They are just using them in small amounts so people do not react enough to realize their is a problem. Over time you will see more and more people having reactions to these substances. Whether or not it is natural I guarantee autolyzed yeast is NOT found in nature in this form. It has been altered.
September 15th, 2008 at 11:39 pm
Jen, thanks for your comment. I’d like to reiterate what I wrote above: “…these ingredients are always clearly identified on the labels so that, as with all food sensitivities and allergies, people can be aware of ingredients they’d like to avoid.” Autolyzed yeast extract and similar ingredients have levels of glutamate similar to those found in natural ingredients, and we are not aware of any scientific evidence of “detrimental effects” at these levels. Using a natural substance to improve the taste of food is a practice that we’re fine with, but again, these ingredients are clearly labeled for anyone looking to avoid them.
September 17th, 2008 at 11:08 am
Joe
It seems the 2 forms of “hidden MSG” I come across the most in the 365 brand is Citric Acid and Natural Flavors. They are very hard hard to avoid in any product. can you please define what natural flavors are and why they are necessary. Would the product taste so horrible that poeple would not purchase the product if this ingredient was left out? It is a very vague term. I came across an articel that said Newmans own was being sued for false advertising of “no MSG”. Some of their cookies that are very good have Natural Flavors and some dont. The mint OREO like cookies and Ginger cookies dont but the regualar OREO like cookie does. I have to say that I am in the camp that believes if you have to hide the ingredient then it shouldnt be added. Especially taking into consideration the premium I am paying to try and avoid these products.
October 7th, 2008 at 4:24 pm
As the author points out, the autolyzed or hydrolyzed products may have less glutamates, but it is still there. In a nutshell, WF allows it’s products to contain a known neurotoxin, no matter how small the amount is. It’s like saying, “this baby formula is alright because there are only trace amounts of heroin in it.” No amount is acceptable. It doesn’t matter if they are natural, cocaine is ‘natural’, they are poisons!
I had a terrible reaction to a product I purchased on the deli line, assuming there would be no neurotoxins in WF’s recipes. My mistake, since corrected.
October 13th, 2008 at 8:05 pm
@ Brett The term “natural flavors” is strictly regulated and essentially means what it sounds like; natural flavors do not and cannot contain monosodium glutamate. The FDA’s definition restricts natural flavors to natural substances – plants, meat, dairy products etc. – and their extracts and derivatives:
The term natural flavor or natural flavoring means the essential oil, oleoresin, essence or extractive, protein hydrolysate, distillate, or any product of roasting, heating or enzymolysis, which contains the flavoring constituents derived from a spice, fruit or fruit juice, vegetable or vegetable juice, edible yeast, herb, bark, bud, root, leaf or similar plant material, meat, seafood, poultry, eggs, dairy products, or fermentation products thereof, whose significant function in food is flavoring rather than nutritional. (21 CFR 101.22(a)(3) )
October 14th, 2008 at 9:01 am
hey joe - i missed the last paragraph of my verbose comment. it was this –
in the meantime, Whole Foods does a darn fine job of labeling their products. it’s one of the reasons I shop at WF’s. when i travel i look them up in whatever city i happen to be in, too. thanks for providing a great role model as to how labeling should be done!
October 17th, 2008 at 7:48 pm
The NY Times article linked to this blog states:
“….Since the 1970s, MSG has sidled back onto American supermarket shelves, UNDER ASSUMED NAMES: hydrolyzed proteins, yeast extracts, protein concentrates and other additives that are not labeled as MSG but, according to nutritionists and the United States Department of Agriculture, ARE ESSENTIALLY THE SAME THING: synthetically produced glutamates…. The whey protein concentrate and liquid aminos that many Americans buy at health food stores are also, ESSENTIALLY, PURE GLUTAMATE, …. ”
Unfortunately, as the WF blog and the responses to the comments indicate, WF has chosen to ignore these statements and is interpreting “MSG under an assumed name” to be less toxic than the article they, themselves, recommended says it is.
I also do not understand how they can possibly categorize anything autolyzed or hydrolyzed as “natural”… do they not know how these ingredients - which are used PURELY as flavor enhancers - are processed?
Joe (the moderator) states that “Autolyzed yeast extract and similar ingredients have levels of glutamate similar to those found in natural ingredients…” But, since any given quantity of autolyzed yeast extract will OBVIOUSLY have less MSG in it than the same amount of pure MSG, and the quantity used as an ingredient will add the same amount of MSG to the product as if it were added in its pure form, Joe’s statement implies ’safety’ where none exists.
Joe also says, “we are not aware of any scientific evidence of “detrimental effects” at these levels…” First of all: WHAT LEVELS? Does WF limit the amount of autolyzed or hydrolyzed ingredients PER SERVING? I doubt it. So how do you know what the detrimental effects are of the levels in any given product? Secondly: Joe, have you read Dr. Russell L. Blayloc’s book, Excitotoxins: The Taste That Kills, which references HUNDREDS of studies PROVING the toxic effects of these ingredients at any level? The studies REFERRED TO IN THE MARCH 12 CORRECTION TO THE NY TIMES ARTICLE?
I have, and I’m sorry, not only have I lost faith in your ‘quality standards’ I also disagree strongly that you are “buying agents for our customers, rather than as sales agents for our suppliers”. As the NY Times article says, manufacturers will go to great lengths to disguise MSG in their products because they know so many people will not buy products containing it. If WF does not also prohibit those ingredients used to sneak MSG into products then WF is supporting the manufacturer’s deceptive practices and if that doesn’t make them ‘sales agents for their suppliers’ then I don’t know what does.
Joe’s claim that toxic ingredients are “clearly labeled for anyone looking to avoid them” makes WF no different than any other grocery store; but, at least in ‘those’ stores, I KNOW I have to read every label. It now appears that I have to read every label in WF as well.
To paraphrase another comment, it’s time for WF to revise their position on MSG in ALL its guises to reflect current scientific knowledge, not that which was approved by the (fallible) FDA 50 years ago. WF’s current policy uses semantics - ‘MSG’ vs. the ‘glutamate’ in autolyzed/hydrolyzed products, as though they were different things - to justify an unsupportable position. You either don’t allow MSG in your stores or you do. Apparently, you do.
December 22nd, 2008 at 5:16 am